Dart for torso-fitting lady&#39;s garment



Jan. 15, 1952 1.. ARMOUR ,73

DART FOR TORSQ-FITTING LADYS GARMENT Filed April 7, 1950 INVENTOR[aw'mlzmamr M Maw ATTORNEYS Patented Jan. 15, 1952 DART,EQBJIZORSO-FITTNGLADXS- GARMENT LouiseArmour; Washington, D.

Application April1' -,,195 Serial. N 154,693

This invention relates to anew shape of; dart and location of the same,to improve the lines; of a suit jacket or any torso-f tting lady's garment, out without side seams or with side seams.

removed two or more, inches to the rear of. the under arm. The inventionalso includes, a garment employing this dart.

A ladys" jacket or any other torso-fitting garment, iffit isto befittedin. at the, waistline must.

p e d ed material the, re ion, of the, bust, f sis suppli di y. proding.additi nall n th f material over, the .DQi'ntof thebust. from.shoulder. o. w is nd xtra width' oi, material. over the bust point in.a, transverse direction, It fol,- loWs that. in. regions other than thebust, area, there will be fullness which v must.v be taken up... Thefullness, thatv results from, added. width of material is ordinarilyremoved by. meansof a dart extending. from. the. front. of the shoulderdownward toward, the. point. or the, bust, andby means of, another.dart. which extends, from. the. waistline vertically upward towardthe.bust point The fullnesswhich follows item. added, len h of, materialusually. results in. the. waistline, being, lower, at. the side than.beneath. the. bust, which. fault is. customarily, Qorrected, by cutting.the ma.-. terial toprovidefor, alon i udinal side. seam ex.- tendingfrom the. bight of the arm. scye to. the. waistline, and providingeither a. horizontal dart. extending. inward from. the. cut. edge ofsaid. side, seam toward the bust pointat the, level of the, bustpoint,.or anjnolined dart extending from a lower point of said side seamtoward the bust point.

One of the objects of the invention is. to pro. vide a dart so shapedand located as to. incorporate the same advantages of the combinationunder arm: side seam and; either the horizontal or inclined dartextending therefrom as. above described, and to take the placeoi thiscomb-inationwithout requiring the presenceof theunder arm; side seams.Since'many. ladies jackets; and other torso-fitting garments are moreadvantageously out with the side seam eliminated or moved from itsnormal under arm position to one. three or four inches to the rear ofsaid normal position, the present invention makes it possible to improveboth the fit and appearance of such garments, and to simplify the methodof their manufacture.

Another object of the invention is to provide a dart which in itselfprovides the sole means necessary for alteration of the ready-madegarment, should the customer find it to misfit at the waistline, or betoo large at the hip, or too long,

2 or too short from the armscye. to the waistline, The fact that thisone dart alone need baaltered o secur the; above. co rec ions facilitatea terations by the retail store, and, thereby. enhances mass production.possibilities of the garment.

Other objects oi: the. invention will appear. as. the following;description oi? a preferred. andpractical embodiment. thereof, proceeds,

In the drawing which; accompanies andforms.

a part of the following specification, and throughout the figures of;which, the, same refer-- ence characters have been used to denoteiden..-tical parts:

Fi ure 1. aper e tive ew r. a earn st embodying the concept. of. theinvention;-

F s te is a Plan o h eatt m or. half he garment;

Figure 3. is a diae mma ie e r pat ernshowing the conventional dartsemployedfor; taking up fullness surrounding the, bust area,

Referring now in detail to the several figures,

n e ins; pa ticular y to the numeral I represents as a whole theunassembled pattern fo o e-ha f; h a ment-on; th clo h itlf an h wn fiahi patte n. twonarts. a d fr nt part; 3.- ind-ioat n by th h ken line 5the normal position of the under armiside.

seam which is. not; present. in this arment, an

the broken line 6 representing the; position of:

the natural; waistline, Thacross; i represents; the bust. point.

The numeral 8 represents. the rear ed e. of the. part; 3; which is.to-be brought into. coincidence with the forward edge 3 of the. part:4., and; the edges. sewn together to. formwhich may be. termed a side,seam, but. displaced several inches to. the. rear of the. normallocation of the underarm sideseam, which the. conventional garment;extends. downward from the lowermost point otthe arm scye. to the lowerend of the garment in a plane perpendicular to the plane of thewaist.-line. It is assumed that added length and width of material hasbeen-supplied to the part 3 to accommodate the bust prominence, the apexof which is at I. The conventional dart H1 is provided for reducing thewidth of the material above the bust region. Referring to Figure 3, onefinds the conventional dart l I which extends from the waistlinevertically upward toward the bust point for taking up the width fullnessin the region below the bust area. This is not "shown in Figure 2, forit is one of the darts the I2, is an opening which starts at or belowthe bust point 1, curves downwardly and rearwardly toward the waistline,and then follows the line of the hip as far down as the widest portionof the hip on a long garment, or to the bottom edge of a short jacket,terminating in the line 5. This dart in the preferred form shown inFigure 2, terminates at its upper and lower ends in tails I3 and I4 ofhairline thickness, and gradually broadens between said tails to thedesired width.

The tails are substantially parallel and extend oppositely in thegeneral direction of the warp of the fabric. The center, inclined, andopen portion of the dart extends more or less biaswise of the fabric andcrosses the waistline. By more or less increasing or eliminating thewidth of this center opening, depending upon where the modification ofits width is made, adjustment either in the length of the'material fromarm eye to waistline, or adjustment of the waistline, or width over thehip in the case of a long garment, is effected.

In the drawing, the side edges of the material that defines the darthave a smooth reverse or S curvature. Alteration of the width of thedart opening by cutting the material of either edge incidentally changesthe length of the cut edge relative to the opposite edge, but since theopen portion of the dart extends biaswise of the material, there is nodifficulty in stretching the shorter side to the length of the longerside when bringing the edges together in a linear seam.

The following is a summary of the principal advantages of the dart andits principal uses.

(a) To be used principally in ladies form fitting jackets or otherladies torso-fitting garments that do not have side seams, or where theside seam is two inches or more to the rear of the under arm point.

(b) To improve the fit of such garments by allowing additional length ofmaterial to pass over the bust point without having the same additionallength continuing laterally of the bust an( under the arm, where thereis no prominence othe breast to take it up; also to nip in the waistlineand round to the desired curve over the hip line.

(c) To facilitate subsequent alterations on garments incorporating thisdart, by allowing in one easy-toreach dart, quick alterations to improvethe fit at any one of the points mentioned in paragraphs (a) and (b).

While I have in the above description disclosed what I believe to be apreferred and practical embodiment of the invention, it will beunderstood by those skilled in the art that the precise shape orcurvature of the edges of the material defining the dart are not to beregarded as absolutely critical, so that they may be varied somewhatwithout transcending the scope of the invention.

What I claim as my invention is:

. sected by the waistline.

2. In a ladys torso-fitting garment of the type in which the side seamis displaced rearwardly of the line of the conventional side seam whichextends downward from the lowermost point of the arm scye in a planeperpendicular to the plane of the waistline, a dart comprising anopening having acute opposite ends, one terminating beneath the bustpoint adjacent thereto, the other at a point below the waistline in aline of the conventional side seam, said opening being progressivelywidened from each end toward the middle, the intermediate part of saidopening being intersected by the waistline.

3. In a ladys torso-fitting garment, a dart comprising an opening havingacute opposite ends terminating in slits extending warpwise, one endingbeneath the bust point adjacent thereto, the other at a point below thewaistline in a line extending downward from the lowermost point of thearm scye in a plane perpendicular to the plane of the waistline, saidopening being progressively widened from each slit toward the middle,the edges of said opening being reversely curved, said opening betweensaid slits lying biaswise of the material.

4. In a lady's torso-fitting garment of the type in which the side seamis displaced rearwardly of the line of the conventional side seam whichextends downward from the lowermost point of the arm scye in a planeperpendicular to the plane of the waistline, a dart comprising anopening having acute opposite ends terminating in slits, one endingbeneath the bust point adjacent thereto, the other at a point below thewaistline in the line of the conventional side seam, said opening beingprogressively widened from each slit toward the middle, the edges ofsaid opening being reversely curved, said slits lying in the directionof the warp and the widened part lying biaswise of the material.

LOUISE ARMOUR.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 392,493 Brown Nov. 6, 18881,900,678 Wester Mar. 7, 1933 2,101,564 Sayour Dec. '7, 1937

